We've got a pretty special surfing spot on the Isle of Tiree, the home of THIRTY-SQUARE. At the westernmost point of the Inner Hebrides, we capture the best warm waters of the Gulf Stream. There's a reason why they call us the Hawaii of the North. Nevertheless, this is most definitely a coldwater swimming spot. In fact, with the best surfing weather over the winter months, surfers are treated to near-zero temperatures and epic waves.

Yet, for all the incredible surfing weather, it's not most people's first thought when they hit a Scottish beach. Yes, the sands are alabaster white, and the waters are relatively warm compared to Canada or Russia. But it's still pretty hardy weather.

It got us all thinking – how did surfing take off in Scotland (and the rest of the UK)? Here on Tiree, surfers have been hitting the beaches like Balevullin and Balephetrish since long before the 1980s. Though it wasn't until 1986 that the Tiree Wave Classic was set up – an epic windsurfing competition attracting talent from all over the world.

What started with a simple question turned into a deep dive into the surfing past. We trawled blogs and books and surfed every surfing site on the web. The history of surfing in Scotland and the UK is a fascinating journey. While surfing might not be thought of as the quintessential British or Scottish sport, along the rugged coastlines and sandy beaches, there's long been a balmy bunch braving the waves and riding the surf. This is their story.

We'll explore those early surfing pioneers and how the cold-water surfing culture has evolved over the decades since. We think of the beaches of Newquay and the West Country as the heart of surfing in the UK. However, we'll see how surfing has become an integral part of our coastal culture throughout the country, from Newquay to Thurso.

1.      A Little Background

2.      Early British Surfing: An Aristocratic Pastime

3.      British Surfing Is Not an Aussie Import

4.      Surfing Fever Takes Hold

5.      Who first rode the Scottish waves?

6.      Scottish Surfing Takes to the Waves

7.      Scottish Surfing Goes West

8.      Tiree Classic Makes Waves

9.      Scottish Coldwater Surfing Today

The History of Surfing in Scotland and the UK

A Little Background

All too often, we assume surfing is a modern sport. As if it was first invented on the golden beaches of Australia just fifty years ago. In fact, evidence of surfing practices is found throughout the world, dating back more than five thousand years. In South America, amongst the Incan and Peruvian cultures, we see the earliest evidence of surfing. There, the fisherman would ride boards of reeds along the coastline – a practice that continued until the Spanish arrived in the 1500s. 

Nor was that the only place surfing was invented. Across the Pacific, the Polynesians – perhaps the most aquatic culture on the planet – invented and mastered the art of he'e nalu (or wave sliding). Joseph Banks, riding aboard Captain Cook's ship HMS Endeavour, witnessed them hitting the waves:

"...their cheif [sic] amusement was carried on by the stern of an old canoe, with this before them they swam out as far as the outermost breach, then one or two would get into it and opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave were hurried in with incredible swiftness."

High chief Abner Paki's board was actually loaned to the Captain Cook Birthplace Museum in the early 2000s, marking the first time it had been exhibited outside of Hawaii.

The Polynesians of Hawaii were avid surfers. It was more than just a hobby; rather, it was an active part of Hawaiian culture – more of an art than anything else. Prayers would be made to soothe the ocean, and surfers believed they undertook a great spiritual ceremony.

Early British Surfing: An Aristocratic Hobby

It may have been a spiritual practice, but it was also fun. And the Polynesians were keen to share their passion with the world. It's believed the agriculturalist John Wrightson was the first person in Britain to surf in 1890, when two Hawaiian princes, David Kawānanakoa and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole, took the middle-aged Wrightson out onto Bridlington beach.

Nor was he the last to mount the waves. Legend has it, Agatha Christie, ever one for adventure, tried surfing while visiting Waikiki in Hawaii. And King Edward VIII, when he was Prince of Wales, also went surfing in Waikiki. Strange it seems today to consider surfing an aristocratic pastime. Still, no one had yet had the bright (or perhaps mad) idea of coldwater surfing. Somehow the chilly beaches of Tiree didn't have the same appeal. When the writer Jack London visited Hawaii, he christened it 'A Royal Sport' because it was so popular with the world's royalty.

Some say the origins of British surfing go back even further, however. Charles Steedman, for example, published his 'Manual of Swimming' in 1867, stating:

"A small deal board, about five feet long, one foot broad, and an inch thick, termed a 'surf board', is of considerable help to a swimmer who are crossing water on which the foam is deep…".

It hadn't yet occurred to us to stand up on it – heaven forbid!

Shortly after, travel writer JW Boddam-Whetham visited Hawaii in 1876, noting, "I do not see why this attractive sport should not be introduced in England in suitable localities – Brighton, for instance."

Regardless, the sport didn't take off in the UK at first.

In the British colony of Australia, surfing took on a common touch. When, in 1910, Tommy Walker returned to Manly Beach, Sydney with a 10ft surfboard he'd bought in Hawaii, he certainly attracted a few stares. Within two years, he was a pro, giving exhibitions to Sydney audiences.

Two years later, Walker was joined, once again, by Hawaiian nobility. This time, by Duke Kahanamoku in the summer of 1914 to 1915. Soon enough, surfing has taken Australia by storm. The Australian love affair with the beach took on a new life.

British surfing is not an Aussie Import

While it was typical for British ideas to trickle down to the colony, now the tide was turning. In 1929 – nineteen years after Tommy Walker first hit the Sydney beaches – four Australian teenagers brought the sport to Cribbar, Britain.

If you're not aware – Cribbar is the surfing mecca of the UK, located at Newquay. This is often quoted as the moment surfing came to the UK properly – yet, it's a myth! The first surfing picture in the UK was snapped in 1904 by Hobart Braddick, founder of Braddick's Holidays, in 1919. Taken in North Devon, it's suspected locals had been surfing there for a decade or more.

In fact, another photo from 1920 shows a bunch of Cornish surfers – men and women – primitive boards in hand. They were modified coffin lids about five feet long made by the local undertaker.

We had a long way to go.

By 1923, Britain's first surf club opened after Nigel Oxenden, a veteran of the Great War, returned home following extensive travels to Hawaii, South Attica, and Australia. Meanwhile, Australian surfing champion Charles Snowy McAlister gave an impressive surfing demonstration showing off his moves in 1928. He wowed crowds and put to rest an odd local assumption that British waves weren't meant to be surfed on.

Surfing Fever Takes Hold

After tepidly dipping our feet in the water, surfing – particularly along the south coast – reached fever pitch. In 1932 Britain's weekly scouting magazine featured a boy surfing alongside the tagline "Surf riding is fine fun." And two years later, Ronald Funnell published Britain's first surfing guide, titled 'The Art of Surf riding'. It taught readers how to ride waves (still lying down – we really didn't like the idea of standing up) and suggested the best surfing beaches in Britain (Tiree was notably absent!).

Throughout the 1930s, surfing took root in Cornwall and Devon – where it remains ever popular to this day. Nor did the royal association disappear entirely. The Duke of Gloucester cut the ribbon of the UK's first wave pool on 25th July 1934 in Wembley, London.

Surfing soon became the chief attraction in Cornwall, with books and railway brochures endlessly advertising this new national pastime. Then war broke out. The fledgling UK surf scene hit choppy waters, just as Brits were getting the hang of it.

Who first rode the Scottish waves?

Surfing is often thought of as a warm water sport. It wasn't the Vikings or the Innuits who first took to the board – it was the Polynesians riding the warm subtropical waves. Even Peruvians enjoyed toasty temperatures – or else surfing might never have been invented.

The question isn't why didn't surfing take off in Scotland earlier, as, why did it take off at all? The answer seems to be because we could.

When the British Surfing Museum headed north to Aberdeen in 2006, it told the story of Tris Cokes, a Cornishman who holds the title of the first person to catch a wave in Scottish waters in 1968. When asked what his first Scottish surf was like, he responded in true Cornish fashion:

"I'm 56 years old! I'm supposed to remember what the day was like 40 years ago? It was bloody cold in the water; I remember that."

However, the museum might have gotten the wrong man. Earlier that year, a hardy bunch of Aberdonian surfers (as if there could be any other type) ventured out onto the surf. These surf pioneers built their own hollow surfboards from marine ply and paddled out on the east coast.

Even they might not have been the first. George Law, for example, who worked morning shifts at the local Aberdeen abattoir, often hit the surf in his free afternoons from 1967.

So was Law the first Scottish surfer – an intrepid Aberdonian pioneer… perhaps not.

According to The Scotsman, Neva Macdonald-Haig, who, at 91-years-old, contacted the paper in 2014. Neva claimed that she and her brothers, Peter and David, first rode the waves off the Mull of Kintyre in the mid-1930s – when the early surfing waves were at their zenith. Like the Cornish, they used boards made by the local undertaker.

"It makes a good story to say there were coffin lids we rode on," she regaled. "But they weren't really. They were rounded at the end – probably about five or six feet long."

She's right – it's a hell of a story.

Scottish Surfing Takes to the Waves

Sometimes history is a flip of the coin – a chance encounter no one expected. So, it was in September 1968 when Andy Bennetts, Ian Wishart, and Stuart Chrichton took the train from Edinburgh to Aberdeen to hit the waves. They lugged their immense surfboards all along the journey and eventually out onto the beach.

Little did they know Scottish surfing history was about to be made.

After asking at the beach pavilion if they could leave their boards somewhere, the response came, "Of course, put it beside this other one." The "other" board belonged to George Law – one of the only other surfers in all Scotland. It must have been a bizarre experience. Thinking you were the only surfer in the country, only to meet like-minded souls – like members of a forbidden religion meeting each other for the first time.

Cold-water surfing was a very different experience back then. Neither Bennetts and the Gang nor Law wore wetsuits. They'd spend a short time out on the water before heading back into the Pavilion to warm up around a wood-burning stove. It was there that Law and the rest exchanged stories and discussed surfing – as would become commonplace in the years after.

But this was a first.

"We got some funny looks," Wishart remembered. "People were wondering what it was. We walked right down Union Street, right down Beach Boulevard all the way to the Beach Pavilion, which is no longer there…."

To mark the 50th anniversary of the bizarre meeting of minds, Bennetts, Wishart, and another Scottish surfing pioneer Bill Batten sat down for an interview, discussing that fateful day.

You can read more about it here in The Scotsman.

In one eye-opening story, Batten decided to get a wetsuit after braving the cold Scottish water. That wasn't an easy thing in the late 60s. He eventually found a neoprene rubber company in Newquay. They provided the rubber and drawings of how to cut out a wetsuit – which he and his wife spent the following week assembling. "Extremely uncomfortable, but it was warmer than not having a wetsuit," was his conclusion.

Crazy times!

Scottish Surfing Goes West

All the Scottish surfing pioneers may have been based on the East Coast around Edinburgh. They surfed beaches like Belhaven, Pease Bay, and Coldingham. It's odd to Scottish surfers today. First, the waters are far colder in the North Sea, and the waves are much smaller.

Bennett and the boys headed for the West Coast, always looking for an adventure and wanting to make a little more surfing history. The islands were a little tricky – so no Tiree just yet. Instead, they picked Machrihanish, at the southern tip of the Mull of Kintyre, where the swells are excellent, if inconsistent.

Unhappy with the unpredictability of the waves, they ventured further afield. At Bettyhill – just around the corner from Thurso – the northern waves were first surfed. This wasn't the now-popular giant waves at Thurso East – but it was the start of the Scottish surfing mecca.

It was the early 1970s, and Bettyhill was becoming the Newquay of the North.

However, unlike their chance encounter with Law, they missed a local surfer in Thurso: Pat Kieran. This lonely Liverpudlian had surfed Thurso East in the mid-1970s. Noting how impressive the waves were, he wrote an article in an English surfing magazine hoping to attract some like-minded friends. It worked. Slowly but surely, Thurso developed a reputation as the famous surfing spot it's known as today.

Tiree Classic Makes Waves

In the early days of British surfing, it was little more than a few intrepid friends discovering where to go and what to do. There was no rulebook. No guide to the best surfing spots. However, by the mid-1970s, things started turning official.

In 1975 the Scottish Surfing Federation was founded, with "the overall vision of the SSF … to represent the interests of Scotland's surfers and protect the Scottish Waves." A few years later, in 1979, the English Surfing Federation was formed. There was even a British surfing team in 1978, who met Prince Charles at Buckingham Palace before flying out to South Africa for the World Amateur Championships. (In fact, the Duke of Cornwall had surfed a fair bit in Australia and at Constantine in Cornwall.)

By the time the 1980s rolled around, surfing was firmly entrenched in the British psyche. Even twists on the sport, like windsurfing, were catching on.

So it was that in 1985, Glaswegian Steven Bisset set about organising what would become known as the Tiree Wave Classic. Tiree had only recently been discovered as a prime surfing and windsurfing location. Yet, word was already spreading of the near-legendary conditions.

Sadly, the first year was an unmitigated disaster. Despite plenty of avid windsurfers making the pilgrimage north, the poor weather meant no competition took place.

Windsurfers aren't an easily dissuaded bunch. And so, the following year, they tried again. Andy Groom and Joe Kelly are primarily responsible for putting together the 1986 event – and adopting the moniker "Classic". It wasn't yet the world-class event we know today. However, many Scottish windsurfing names appeared like Duncan Coombs, Peter Hart, and Dave Cordell.

It was a massive success – so much so that it's been held on the island every year since.

Scottish Coldwater Surfing Today

We've come a long way since the early days of surfing – and we've learned a lot here in Scotland. When you head out onto the Scottish water, you'll no longer be met with so many odd looks and glances. And you can even buy a surfboard in Scotland! No coffin lids for us!

In fact, Scotland is now known as being one of Europe's top surfing destinations, just as long as you remember your wetsuit – cold water surfing isn't for fainthearted.

Many of the most popular spots are still the beaches found by those early Scottish pioneers: Coldingham Bay, Dunbar, and Pease Bay on the East Coast. Meanwhile, here on the West Coast, the strong south westerly winds attract generations of surfers to try brave the waves.

Tiree even boasts its own surf school – Blackhouse Watersports!

And, not far away, on the Isle of Cumbrae, you'll find Scotland's premier watersports centre. Coldwater surfing is still something of a niche hobby. But it's no longer a lonely one. You'll often find surfers on almost any decent surfing spot in Scotland

So, whether you're a surfer or windsurfer, bodyboarder or wakeboarder, there's a thriving community ready to take you in.

For that – we say thanks to the pioneers! Thanks to the Hawaiians who passed along their art! And thanks to every brave soul who first ventured out into the cold Scottish waters.

7 year old me would have scoffed at the idea that I was in any way able to give an opinion on 5 of The Best Independent Surf Brands for 2021. Growing up in the middle of the UK, I was about as far away from the ocean as you can get and constantly wishing it were closer. I lived for the moment each Summer that we would pack up (what seemed like) half the house and make the epic 5-6 hour car journey to Cornwall, home to super cool surf spots, pasties and clothing shops unlike anything I had experienced in my wee market town.

Everyone and everything seemed a little bit cooler, as if the sea spray had imbued them with a unique surfer style that I could never hope to emulate. Of course I know now that the “unique” style they were sporting came from the big surf brands, like O’Neil, Roxy and Billabong. Back then I duly purchased a few cool items, a Roxy purse and Billabong t-shirt, but imagine my disappointment when I eventually made it to Australia, home of surfer cool and everyone was wearing brands that I had never heard of. The new up and coming independent surf brands were now way cooler than the larger well known names.

Since those early days I have made an unconscious decision to live as close to the ocean as possible, with my current destination a remote island in Scotland (Isle of Tiree), well known for its awesome beaches and year round surf possibilities - and a growing surf brand – THIRTY-SQUARE. These days it’s less about wearing the big name brands and more about searching for those independent brands. The ones that began with a great story, a whole lot of passion and a desire to create something meaningful, as well as cool.

One of the upsides to the past year (bear with me here...it has been terrible in so many ways, but I am desperately searching for a positive)! is that we have a little more time.Time for online research, time to really think about what we want from our surf brands and time to appreciate their stories. Which is why, on a wet and windy day, I am sat here pondering...who would feature on a list for 5 Of The Best independent Surf Brands for 2021?

1. THIRTY-SQUARE

2. Outerknown

3. Cariuma

4. Birdwell Britches

5. Nineplus

1. THIRTY-SQUARE
We could be coy, but let's be real, THIRTY-SQUARE are earning their spot on the best independent surf brands for 2021. What began as a beach board meeting on the Isle of Tiree in Scotland, has developed into a growing cold water surf co. The initial focus was on creating and testing a world class wooden bodysurfing handboard and from that sprung a collection of surf inspired clothing and accessories. [a bit about the good we are doing]. Mention a couple of cool ambassadors, e.g. Ben, Ella, Alex. The wooden handplanes are beautiful to look at - if you are not an avid watersports person you could easily buy one purely to hang on your wall as a piece of art.

I was never a great fan of bodysurfing (as my husband glided through the water with no board needed, I would just get turned over by the wave), but once I got the hang of the 30 Wood Handplane I was flying along and feeling pretty damn cool.

My other personal favourite is the Cold Water Co collection. The world is in a growing love affair with cold water therapy and although the science is only just catching up, there are some strong cases to show how true the Thirty Square Cold Water Happy tag line is.

One scientific study which has gained attention, was published in the British Medical Journal. “A 24-year-old woman with symptoms of major depressive disorder and anxiety had been treated for the condition since the age of 17. Following the birth of her daughter, she wanted to be medication-free and symptom-free. A programme of weekly open (cold) water swimming was trialled. This led to an immediate improvement in mood following each swim and a sustained and gradual reduction in symptoms of depression, and consequently a reduction in, and then cessation of, medication. On follow-up a year later, she remains medication-free."
So hang the board, hang tight with the board, take a dunk in the cold water, or rock the Cold Water Happy hoodie. There are many ways to be a part of the THIRTY-SQUARE collective.

2. Outerknown
Even if you aren’t a member of the surf community, chances are high that you will know the name Kelly Slater. Not only is he considered the most successful pro surfer of all time, he even managed to appear on 27 episodes of Baywatch with the Hoffman himself. Sponsored by Quicksilver since the 90’s, Kelly left them in 2014 as he wanted to start up his own clothing brand. Joining with designer John Moore, they created Outerknown. Moore says, "We're surfers who grew up with surf brands, but we grew out of logos. And we want to wear clothing that's made better and looks better." Kelly had sported Quicksilver branded clothing for years, but he knew very little about the clothing and how it was made. “I became interested in how clothes are made,” he told Vogue, “where textiles come from, the effects on the environment, social consciousness. . .

I thought all those aspects could be put together in one company.” “The surf world is not known for making great clothing and they don’t have high prices, so when we came out with really nice clothes at a higher price point, I got a lot of flack from people saying I’d sold out or just wanted to line my pockets. The ironic thing about that is, I took a gigantic pay cut to start a brand I believed in.”

The gamble seems to be paying off and Outerknown are really leading the change in terms of an eco conscious forward thinking brand. 90% of the fibres they use are organic, 100% of their trunks are made from recycled or renewable fibres and they give a guarantee for life on their S.E.A jeans. It is an inspiring approach and it will be interesting to see where they go and the effect they will have on other surf brands. MORE INFO

3. Cariuma
I am feeling like that uncool 7 year old again right now, as I had not yet discovered Cariuma, but having found them I think they will be a purchase for the future!

This surf brand is solely focused on sneakers. The company was started by two board sports loving guys based in Rio de Janeiro who felt that “the industry-standard “cool-classic” sneakers were really uncomfortable and that the big corporations weren’t socially responsible and didn’t really care about sustainability in an active way.”

They decided to reinvent the sneaker game and they appear to be succeeding. Described as “old school shoes meet new school ethics...offering 70’s skater vibes” the efforts that they go to in order to create a sustainable but cool looking shoe are quite something. The rubber used is gathered from the hevea brasiliensis tree through ethical “tapping” (removing a milky sap from its bark). “So, no trees are ever harmed in the production of our sneakers!” They also gather and reuse every excess piece of rubber on the next pair of shoes. Likewise their Cork is carefully scraped from the cork tree so that the tree remains intact and can form new bark.

This trend for surfers inspired by their environment and a desire to protect it, is something that I am seeing across many of the up and coming independent surf brands - which is something that we can all celebrate and support. MORE INFO

4. Birdwell Britches
In 1961 Carrie Birdwell Mann transformed her small southern California home into a sewing room and store, launching Birdwell Beach Britches. It was one of the first businesses specializing in surf wear, making her living room one of the first surf shops. Birdwell were all about slow fashion, way before there was a term for it and their shorts are said to last across generations. Apparently customers often send in photos of their father’s or grandfather’s board shorts, still going strong.

By 2014 the family had lost their love for the business and accepted an offer from a local surfer and Facebook exec (Matt Jacobson), who loved the company and wanted to grow the brand, but maintain the legacy. Jacobson has moved the company from wholesale to a direct to customer sales approach, engaging on insta and facebook to grow their community - and it seems to be working. One customer said “When you order online now, it’s still delivered in the same Birdwell box, same as the times when I would call up one of the sisters and buy it over the phone,” “It’s more efficient now, but, oddly enough, retains the same feel for me it had many years ago.” MORE INFO

5. Nineplus
Another company with a great story, Nineplus began in 1963, in St Agnes Cornwall. The founder Richard Balding drove around the UK and Europe in his VW, packed with stock, attending surf events and cajoling people into buying his products, which were packaged and dispatched by school kid workers back home. He later teamed up with a California surfboard maker to sell and produce surf boards and by 2003 they were operating from warehouses in Cornwall and France. The real turning point though, was their neoprene wetsuits, which revolutionised the design, including creating a shape that fitted and suited women.

Nineplus wetsuits are iconic today and renowned for their understated look and cold fighting warmth. They also created #warmclub and formed a charity with this tagline, which produces sleeping bags for the homeless. The company story highlights the good and bad times in the company and shows that a passionate and fierce approach is what you need to build a successful independent surf brand.

When I began this piece I was planning to feature more than 5 brands, but there were so many great options out there and each of them were so interesting and inspiring, that I think it warrants further investigation and a follow up article. MORE INFO

In the course of my research I was quite shocked to find that many of those cool and quirky surf brands that I used to love are now part of one large company. In 2018 Quicksilvers parent company Boardriders purchased Billabong to create a new super surf conglomerate which includes Roxy, DC shoes, Von Zipper, Element and RVCA.

Although I didn’t know that fact, I had already made a move away from larger brand names in favour of something independent and more authentic, which I think is something many consumers are doing. As I said at the start, we want more from our brands now. We want the story, the passion, the ideals and we want to be amongst the first to discover those brands and champion them using our own stories.

Independent brands aren’t created in a boardroom, they are created by a group of people with a passion to make something different, something real and the consumer wants to be a part of that journey.  In choosing their new boardshorts from Outerknown, their new hoodie from THIRTY-SQUARE and their new kicks from Cariuma, they buy into that journey and document it on their own social media story. It is exciting to be a part of a shared journey and we all want to embrace something fresh and authentic. Based on the independent surf brands that I have discovered so far, there is a lot to choose from in 2021.

Last July I took the decision to stop regularly eating meat. At the time, the decision was based on a deep held belief that I needed to do more to reduce my impact on the environment, and because I knew various other bodysurfers that had taken the plunge to go vegan and were reaping the benefits.  In the first few weeks of exploring this change, and starting to replace meat with other alternatives, I found myself looking into a plant based diet as an option.

A plant-based diet allows us to be more aware about the nutritional value of what we eat, shortens exercise recovery time and improves muscle ability, that is why it could be the perfect option for you to reach your sporting goals. It does not necessarily mean you need to cut out all animal products. In fact, the term can be interpreted in multiple ways. Some people understand it to mean a vegan diet, for others it could be focusing on plant foods but occasionally eating meat or fish. 

For me, a plant based diet has, for the most part, been very vegetarian. I can go weeks without eating any meat products, and I find that I end up choosing a much wider variety of food now because of it. 

However, as I live close to the sea, I occasionally allow myself some locally caught seafood. There is nothing better than fresh fish, and the further north you go the better it gets. Otherwise my curries are filled with vegetables and my cupboards are piled high with fruit.

When I decided to stop regularly eating meat, and to start filling my diet with more plant foods, I did it knowing that there were certain foods I would miss. I’ve certainly had my weak moments, especially for apple and pork pies, but there are multiple positives of a plant based diet that keep me on the right track:

1.   Furthers my performance both in and out of the water

2.   Boosts my energy

3.   Weight management is easier

4.   Feeling overall healthier and stronger.

5.   Opens the door to experimenting with new food

Over the last 8 months, the positives have far outweighed the negatives, and I have noticed a significant difference in my overall health and fitness. Now I stick to a plant based diet, because I prefer how it makes me feel – and I like the impact it has had on my bodysurfing and swimming ability. It isn’t necessarily the right choice for everybody, but it could potentially give you a kick start to improving your sporting strength.

Increase Training and Competition Performance

In recent years, more and more elite athletes have been switching to a plant based diet. Some more notable sporting figures you might recognise that are vegan include; Lewis Hamilton, Venus Williams and David Haye.

While currently there is little research in the shift, many of these sporting heroes are hailing their plant based diets for their success. A documentary focussing on this shift, ‘the Game Changers’, came out recently on Netflix, and tracked the progress of various international athletes through their training whilst following a vegan diet. Produced by Arnold Schwarzenegger, it came to the conclusion that sticking to a plant-based diet can significantly improve athletic performance.

In a review written in the journal Nutrients, various reasons for this improvement are suggested. This review based its data on 77 other journals and pieces of research, found that a plant-based diet will help more oxygen reach muscles, and could improve blood flow. In turn, this will impact the capacity your muscles can work at, making it possible for you to train harder and for longer.

All this is based on the idea that by participating in a plant-based diet, you naturally eat less high-fat foods. 

This is something I personally noticed, and really felt the benefit from. Since switching to a plant-based diet, I have felt that I could keep performing at a high standard for longer periods of time – and I’ve also found that I do not need to wait as long after eating before I get in the water. Overall, I’ve seen a definite increase in my ability in the sea (I particularly noticed this after starting body surfing, and finding myself in the sea for longer periods of time) and when running on land. 

Energy Boosting For Endurance Sessions

We’ve all been there; we’ve got in the zone and been out at sea for hours. The surf is pumping, the sun is shining and there is nowhere in the world we’d rather be – and then you hit the dreaded brick wall.

And at this point we wish we trained more, trained longer, pushed harder, had put time into increasing cardiovascular fitness. If only we’d done a little bit more, maybe we could stay out a little longer. Instead it’s a hard drag back up the beach, the car a little spot in the distance. It’s exhausting.

Switching to a plant-based diet is suggested to help with your endurance, so in terms of body surfing that means more time to rip through left and right hand waves.

According to the Nutrients review mentioned earlier, sticking to a plant-based diet has been shown to improve cardiovascular health and recovery time in endurance athletes. It suggests that a plant-based diet can play a significant role in training and performance, is especially effective for cardiovascular health, and can drop recovery times.

So not only can you train for longer, but you can get back to training much quicker. Recently, runners and cyclists have begun to adapt to a plant-based diet to improve their endurance. Perhaps it’s time for other sports to follow suit?

Managing Weight is Easier

Plant based diets tend to be high in fibre, carbohydrates and water content from vegetables and fruit. There are theories to suggest that this keeps you feeling fuller for longer, so you eat less. It also means you increase your energy use, even when you’re resting, so you burn calories faster.

Research in 2009 published in Diabetes Care found that vegans had the lowest average BMI, followed by vegetarians and pescatarians. The group with the highest average BMI were non-vegetarians. I personally try not to focus too heavily on a BMI, as there are limiting factors to its accuracy.  (For example, when I was hitting my training peak two years ago,I was considered underweight due to an increasingly reduced body fat percentage) however, it is a clear indicator that a plant based diet can have quite a significant impact on overall weight and health. Reduced body fat is associated with increased aerobic capacity, and fitness, which will directly translate to sporting ability.

This is backed up by research in 2013, published in The Permanente Journal, that suggested that plant based diets promote considerably lower rates of obesity.

When already heavily involved in sports, or trying to get more involved, weight can be a tricky matter to navigate. Sports like surfing are not too negatively affected by weight, however by paying attention to it then you might find you see an increase in strength and overall health that helps you perform better. Going plant based could help you start become more aware about the nutritional value of what you’re putting in your body, and in time you should see a significant positive impact on your fitness.

Feeling Mentally and Emotionally Healthier and Stronger

It’s not a surprise that what you eat impacts every part of your body and so, whilst it’s not something we often consider, changing your diet can have a beneficial impact on your mood.

People associate plant-based diets with vegetables and fruit, but there are a wide variety of nutritious plant based foods, such as nuts and beans, that will help you get everything you need to stay healthy. 

Nutritious, plant-based foods are filled with a higher level of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants that you are unlikely to get in high-fat foods. In this way, you are nourishing not just your body but also your mind.

According to recent studies, vegetarians have showed fewer symptoms of anxiety, stress and depression. This could be down to a variety of reasons, but research suggests that with a plant-based diet you have higher levels of antioxidants in the blood stream, which significantly lower the risk of depression.

The impact of this on day to day life alone is very positive, but when we look at how it influences sports and how we perform, keeping good mental health is what encourages us to get back out and active. I think just feeling healthier overall will put you in a position where you can take on anything, and can only help you improve your athletic achievements. 

You Might Open the Door to Trying New Food

Let’s talk about variation. Taking the decision to alter your diet can be a really tricky one. Up until last summer I was a staunch fan of pork pies, chicken curries and fish and chips. The reality is, those are some of the few things I still really crave.

 However, last July I made the decision to start cutting down on the amount of meat I ate. After researching the environmental impact of farming animals, and after already deciding to buy no new clothes, I felt it was the next step to trying to reduce my individual carbon footprint.

Rather than cutting meat out straight away, I restricted myself to eating it only on weekends. It was a little easier than going cold turkey, and made the transition period feel really simple. In the meantime, I started experimenting with plant based alternatives. So instead of using vegetarian meat, such as Quorn, I would choose butternut squash or beetroot burgers, sweet pepper and potato sausages. These are products that can be substituted for meat in a meal, but are entirely produced of plant based ingredients.

Whilst I know there is a considerable amount of stigma about missing meat, or alternatives not matching up, I can safely say the best wings I have ever had were made from cauliflower. 

What I learned from my first few months of reduced meat (Which has now become vegetarian) is that I have started trying new and different foods that I would never normally consider, and that I really love them. 

When you go out for food, or are stood staring at the stocked meat freezers in the supermarket, it is so easier to stick to what you know. I’ve been very guilty of choosing the same meal again and again because I know I like it – however, when you start experimenting with different foods you open the door to a world of new flavours. You’ll try food you never considered before, visit vegetarian cafes and restaurants that you may otherwise have not encountered. Plant based food is delicious but often passed over for meat alternatives, and changing up your diet will force you to experience new and exciting foods you’ve not tried before.

Conclusion

It is important to acknowledge that a plant-based diet isn’t for everyone. But if you’re willing to take the plunge, you could see improvements to your strength and fitness as well as being in a position to experiment with new foods. After experiencing the difference it has made to my bodysurfing, I know I’ll be sticking to it in the future. If you’re looking for a way to boost your sporting ability, or your endurance, then this might be the answer. With improved cardiovascular fitness, better blood flow and faster recovery times, there really doesn’t seem to be many downsides. 

When it comes to keeping warm when you are cold water bodysurfing we thought 5 was a good starting point. So, here are 5 ways to keep warm bodysurfing in winter that really work. Suit up get a great wetsuit, prepare make a little list of stuff not to forget, warmup before you take the surf, warm up real slow there’s no rush and keep moving when you’re in the water.

Swimming or surfing in cold water has become quite the media talking piece in the last few years, so much so that it begins to take on some kind of mythical energy, best left to the real surf pros or super tough Northerners. I would like to happily debunk that feeling that you have to have studied up on every aspect of how to survive the cold water. A lot of it is common sense, but I can share some tips that I (by no means a hardened professional) have learned through trial and error, the experience of fellow surfers and a bit of science around how a wetsuit acts as an insulator and understanding the “afterdrop”. As the anticipation of that first cold blast of water began to creep in once more, it led me to refine my methods of the 5 ways to keep warm bodysurfing in winter that really work.

It’s a gorgeous sunny day in March on the Isle of Tiree and the surf forecast gets 4 stars, so it’s time to down tools and hit The Maze for a bodysurf. It may be officially heading towards Summer, but the water temperature is still only 8 °C this time of year, and despite the glorious sunshine I need to figure out how best to stay warm.

Having lived in New Zealand for ten years and a with a love affair of being in the sea that far precedes that, it was only when I moved to the Isle of Tiree and swapped the Pacific Ocean for the chilly Atlantic waves that I really began to research how I could keep warm during winter, especially having discovered the thrill of body surfing. The good news is that thanks to the island being located in the Gulf Stream the temperature always stays a good few degrees above freezing. Still, heading into 8 °C waters requires a serious solution to keep warm.

5 ways to keep warm bodysurfing in winter that really work

1.     Suit up

2.     Jump like an army recruit

3.     Prepare, prepare, prepare

4.     Keep moving

5.     Warm up real slow

1. Suit up

There is no getting away from it. If we are going into the sea in winter, we need to embrace all things neoprene starting with the thickest suit that we can find. The rule of thumb is, the thicker the neoprene the warmer the suit. Yes there are some hardy souls who embrace cold water swimming and build up enough tolerance to do away with a wetsuit, but if you want to spend a decent amount of time in the surf, find yourself a 5mm suit and at least a pair of neoprene boots too - if you really feel the cold a pair of gloves and hat wouldn't be a crazy plan either – brain freeze hurts!.

Some people handle the cold better than others, but it's always better to have to take something off, than miss it when you are out in the water. Personally, I need the boots. The sea equivalent of my much loved Ugg slippers. If my feet are warm, I am warm.

There is a common misconception that wearing a wetsuit protects you from cold water, by doing its best to keep the water out. What your suit actually does is to act as an insulator by trapping water between your skin and suit allowing your body to warm that water to an acceptable temperature and keep it there. 

Treat your suit with care and when it starts to sprout holes, either replace it, or get yourself a wetsuit repair kit and patch it up. Holes mean a loss of insulation, so it's worth fixing.

2. Jump like an army recruit 

The best piece of advice I found was the one that went against my gut and also caused the most amusement to any casual beach walkers. Warm up before you get in the water. In my head I thought going into cold water with a warm body would make the cold water more of a shock - in the same way that it does when you sunbathe and then dive into a cool pool.

Not so. The key here is to get our internal temperature up with some light jogging, or some star jumps on the spot and in addition to amusing any passing walker, it worked. That warmth that we get from a little light exercise carried with me as I felt that first rush of cold water into my wetsuit. 

The other suggestion is to pour warm water into your wetsuit before you get into the cold. I haven't tried this one yet, but it makes perfect sense. When that cold water rushes into your wetsuit your body is working super hard to warm it to an acceptable body temperature. If you flush the warm water in first, it means your body isn't having to work as hard as soon as you enter the water.

“there are two kinds of surfers, surfers that pee in their wetsuits and surfers that don’t tell the truth”

Of course, if you forget the warm water there is the dirty trick which has spawned many a humorous quote, my favourite being “there are two kinds of divers, divers that pee in their wetsuits and divers that don’t tell the truth”. Ultimately, the choice is yours, just make sure you wash that suit out really well after every use!

3. Preparation is key

I’ll be honest, on our wee island we are lucky enough to be within 5-10 mins of several great surfing beaches, so I often get out of the water, throw myself into the van and head home asap - the idea of trying to get out of my wetsuit and into warm dry clothes does sound appealing, but doing that in gusting winds of at least 30+mph isn't remotely tempting.

Preparation is key though and there are a few things that I do prepare in advance:-

• Ear plugs - I have always hated lots of water streaming into my ears (the perks of a childhood of ear infections), so have been wearing plugs for years and having spoken to some of the local surfers it may have saved me from lots of ear pain, otherwise known as ‘surfers ear’.

• A warm vehicle to return to - on your way to the beach crank up the heating, so that it is nice and cozy on your way home.

• Dry seats - there's nothing worse than heading out to the shop after a surf and sitting yourself down on a waterlogged seat. If you can spring for waterproof seat covers, it will make your journey much more comfortable. If you can't, or maybe your bored puppy scratched up your new covers (!) grab some bin bags or something similar and they will do the job.

• A Dry robe - even if you can't face getting changed at the beach, taking your wetsuit half or fully off and driving back in a robe seems to keep the chills at bay.

• A warm woolly hat - cold wet hair is the fastest way to get a chill, so keep your head cosy too.

• Warm drink and chocolate - if you are feeling really organised grab a flask or insulated cup of your favourite warm beverage and a snack. The warm drink will gradually warm up your body - without rushing the process. Sugar also helps raise the body temperature and after throwing yourself into the cold sea, don't you deserve a treat?

4. Just keep moving

It sounds obvious but I know from experience it’s important to keep moving while you’re in the water. It's easy to get distracted waiting for the perfect wave and just bob about in the water getting stiff and cold.

The more you keep moving around, the more your body will pump warm blood into your feet and hands. The water can get quite shallow on some of our beaches, so I also throw in the odd bouncy jog back into the water, just to keep moving.

Another tip I learned is to shrug my shoulders up and down, which forces more warm blood into my hands. Basically, in between waves, if you’re busting shapes like a 90’s disco raver, chances are you’re keeping warm.

A great motivation for me to keep moving in Winter (aside from the need to keep warm), is that it is great training for summer surf. You have to work harder in cold water and that is a great training ground for a warmer climate - imagine going from a full wetsuit, hat, gloves, boots to a costume and at most a rash vest? It's the watersports equivalent of those top athletes that train at high altitudes and extreme temperatures. Plus, there is the bragging rights that you will have for having got out there in winter!

5. Warm up slow

The temptation when you get home from a winter bodysurf is to head straight for a hot shower, or a huge warm bath, but that would be the worst idea. There is a term for what happens to your body after being in cold water “Afterdrop” and the Outdoor Swimming Society offer a brilliant explanation of what that is:

Afterdrop happens because when you swim, your body shuts down circulation to your skin, pooling warm blood in your core. This process helps you stay in the water longer: with reduced circulation to your peripheries skin and sub-cutaneous fat is turned into a thermal layer, similar to a natural wetsuit – hence the wild swimmers’ term bioprene for fat.

But as you start to warm up, this process reverses: blood starts to recirculate in your extremities and peripheral blood vessels, cooling as it travels. You can lose up to 4.5°C from your core temperature (according to Golden and Tipton, Essentials of Sea Survival), bringing on shivering, hypothermia, or feeling faint and unwell.

The key to warming up and staying well is to warm up slowly and gradually. If you attempt to rush it by, for example, having a warm shower or bath, you will draw the warm blood that has pooled in your core to the skin at speed, leading to rapid cooling. You will quite likely faint as your temperature plummets along with your blood pressure.

All that sounds quite daunting, but it's just a reminder that there is something quite zen about this whole cold water endeavour. It can’t and shouldn’t be rushed. Just as you prepare yourself for getting into the water, you should take care to warm up slowly.

It is worth noting that once you get out of the water, your body doesn't automatically start to warm up. In fact, your core temperature continues to cool down for the first 20-30 minutes, which is why it’s important to start the warm up process early on and think of your warm up as a step by step process. I warm up in stages, starting with drying off, sipping a warm drink, putting on some warm clothes and sipping more warm drinks.

My final bit of advice doesn’t come from research, but from experience...you never regret a bodysurf.

You watch the online weather forecast in anticipation, decide that tomorrow is the day, ignore your friends' comments of “are you mad”?, psych yourself up, suit up, jump around on the sand like a loon, maybe flush some warm water down your suit, before walking out into the waves, board in hand, with a big grin on your face as you catch that first wave. And you remember there is nothing like that feeling as you press your board into that wave and ride it as far as possible.

If you’re lucky (and in Scotland) you may even have some seal buddies join you for a few waves, probably mistaking you for a strange and clumsy seal hybrid, but happy to watch you play in the waves all the same. 

I’m not giving you a guarantee here, I can just tell you with absolute confidence that for every feeling of dread I have felt about plunging into the cold water, the awesome feeling that you get from bodysurfing in winter wipes that from your mind. Whether it's the rush of endorphins, the thrill of catching a wave just right, or the heady abandon of doing something a little bit mad, it's the reason that I find myself once again squeezing into an unforgiving wetsuit and star jumping for all I’m worth on the side of the water...because really, don’t we all want to do more things that are just a little bit mad? And when you do, just remember these 5 ways to keep warm bodysurfing in winter that really work! 

As I wrestled my way into my winter wetsuit, I gave a nod to one of the locals I have come to know quite well during my outings to one of Tiree’s many stunning beaches, and headed out towards the white a-frame peaks. This winter I discovered the art of body surfing with hand boards on the Isle Of Tiree, and it has had me addicted. A paddle into the curve of a wave, a quick drop down the face and then I’d be off along the peeling line.

It is not an unusual experience to be asked, whilst getting changed in a make-shift car park (aside from the obvious question of being in the water in the norther hemisphere in the depth of winter), what it is I am doing out there, what the board is I am using, how it works, and more importantly, how it feels. I also often get asked if it is a new sport and where it originated. So I decided to delve a little deeper into the history of bodysurfing and explain why you should try it too.

The history of body surfing is quite extensive, and has roots all over the world. It existed long before the first handboards were used in Hawaii, and continues to inspire surfers and swimmers alike. From the first days in Polynesia, to competitions in California and the recent resurgence, bodysurfing will never grow old. For me, the feeling of being in the water with my handplane is simply addictive. Cold water helps me to manage stress and body surfing helps to keep me fit. The social aspects are another great reason for getting involved. In the UK alone there are hundreds of beaches to give it a go – The coastlines of the Inner Hebrides offer a beach for every kind of weather, the Isle of Tiree has 23 of them. With such a rich history, and with it being just on our doorstep, I personally think everyone should give body surfing a try.

As I write this, there is an almost perfect swell hitting the UK Coastline. Corduroy sets line our beaches, in some places double-overhead. A couple of fellow mainlanders fill line ups, having seen it coming and jumped on the ferry to experience our world class waves. It is winter, it is cold, and the surf is firing.

We have been lucky enough to have a couple of days of brilliant crisp weather, of glimpses of warm sunshine and of bright blue skies. The wind has been still and the surf is looking awe-inspiring. With the dark nights finally pulling back, it would be a criminal act to not make use of the near-perfect conditions.

Why bodysurf?

When we look at why people bodysurf today, and why you should get involved if you are not already, I think it is important to take into account the history of the sport. Like many outdoor sports, bodysurfing offers a culture that takes a lot of its quirks from the past and incorporates them into the modern day line-up.

Of course this is not the only reason that people bodysurf and, I believe, why more people should bodysurf too. My own personal reasons are pretty extensive, and having spoken to surfers up and down our coastline (some with pretty high competition accolades!) I know that it is not unusual. But the timeline of body surfing is longer than you would imagine, and is a vital aspect of the surf community – And that community is one of the epic highlights of bodysurfing that continues to pull me back to the sea.

Here are my top five reasons I get into the sea with my board:

1.     I am addicted to the feeling

2.     Cold water helps me manage stress, and is good for my health

3.     I love the surf culture, and being part of a wider social circle

4.     Surfing increases all my levels of fitness; strength, balance, cardio ability

5.     I never regret it

Since becoming more heavily involved with the national surfing community, I’ve heard various different stories of the birthplace of bodysurfing. It is quite well documented that the first board surfers were found in Hawaii, and all surfing countries can find the roots of their board surfing on that tiny island in the Pacific, however there is little documented history of bodysurfing.

There is speculation about early humans being inspired by watching wave-riding animals, such as fish or dolphins, and trying to emulate their behaviour – although those are only theories. I’ve also heard stories about Captain Cook, and about the Polynesia. Whenever these stories are told it is with excitement and passion, which is understandable - Quite often the history of these extreme sports is considerably more extreme than we consider it in the modern day.

Despite being inundated with friends and locals giving me their own take on where bodysurfing started, researching the topic has introduced some surprising facts. The history is quite rich, and wonderful, and still plays a big part in surfing today.

The first documented bodysurfing

The invention of body surfing is accredited to Captain James Cook, although it would probably be more accurate to say that Captain Cook was the first documented European to give the sport a go – whilst exploring Tahiti, Polynesia, in 1769.

Before then, despite being the purest form of surfing, there is little documented knowledge of the sport of body surfing.

After watching local Polynesians, Captain Cook and his men took the opportunity to try to catch large waves that are a particular feature of the island. Having not yet been exposed to other cultures that would ‘wave-slide’, they had no boards to help them and so used their bodies to ride waves.

Body surfing itself is thought to have been started long before board surfing and, according to the Anthropologists at the University of Hawaii, that could date back to 2000BC.

It’s easy to see why it grew in popularity so quickly when first founded in the 18th century. For me the joy of body surfing is how inherently physical it is. There is no better feeling than flying into wave unencumbered by any extra weight. It’s just you, your own ability, and the sea. There’s the first rush of adrenaline as you feel the wave pick you up, and the anticipation of the drop – then you’re off down the face. The speed of the take-off always gives me this sense of being at one with the sea. Rather than being on top of it, as you would be on a surfboard, you’re much more a part of the process.

I have no doubt that, 300 years ago, when the first pioneers for body surfing caught their very first wave; they had the same rush that we get today.

The Popularity of Body Surfing Grows

Body surfing seems to have taken off internationally in the 1800s, some 100 years since Captain James Cook was introduced to it in Polynesia.

The sport made its way to Australia in 1899, with the arrival of Polynesian Tommy Tanna. Before that, there is no documented history of body surfing in any of the more well-known surf destinations (Other than Hawaii). Tanna taught the Australian Fred Williams how to bodysurf on the warm beaches of Sydney, who then spread it through the local community.

Bodysurfing reached the United States at around the same time, but really became popularised in the 1920s. According to documented history, Olympic Swimmer Wally O’Connor drew a crowd by diving underwater and catching waves on the local beaches of Los Angeles.

"Surf-Riding is a Favourite Summertime Sport,"

Life Magazine, 1940

Los Angeles was the birthplace of bodysurfing in the USA. In 1931 Ron Drummond published ‘The Art of Wave-Riding’. It is now incredibly difficult to get hold of a copy of this book. I’ve tried, but as far as I can tell there are only somewhere between 200-500 copies that were ever printed. It is considered a classic of surf literature, and offers 26 pages of guidance on how to ‘wave surf.’

By the time the Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic was held for the first time in 1971 (the first surf competition ever held at the Banzai Pipline on Oahu), bodysurfing was very popular in the United States.  With the rise of competitions like Pipeline, this popularity continued to grow for another decade.

The modern day resurgence of Bodysurfing

Unfortunately, by the 1990s body surfing had all but died out. Bodysurfing is one of the least publicised forms of surfing, which resulted in it being described as “the lost art”. It had passed through its golden era, gained popularity for its purity, and then had not been able to compete with the glossy and impressive images that surfing could produce.

Thankfully, a small pocket of bodysurf enthusiasts were keeping the sport alive- and competing regularly enough for it to be primed and ready for a resurgence at any time.

And it looks like that time is now.

In the last decade, we’ve certainly seen a return to body surfing as a popular sport of choice – Hand paddles and belly boards are making a return to shops, and are treasured as a statement of tradition and purity. Made out of more traditional materials such as wood, they seem to be becoming increasingly more popular.

I would highly recommend watching Come Hell or High Water, a fantastic film by Keith Malloy and presented by Patagonia and NIXON. It explores the history of bodysurfing, and the pureness that the sport offers.

“bodysurfing became an escape from surfing. It was riding a wave for the pure enjoyment of riding a wave, and not trying to do anything too incredible but enjoy the ride”

Over more recent years, documentaries have had quite a significant impact over the direction of sports, and this is no exception. With the release came a resurgence of media, through online platforms and photography that have allowed a community connection for body surfers.

This has led to significant developments in the body surfing industry – we’ve seen the release of hand planes and fins that are more performance orientated than many probably thought possible. Like many, I first learned to bodysurf with no aid. I apparently have quite a quirky style, and I have heard many times that it is not the most effective.

Rather than racing into the wave with one arm stretched out in-front of me, I reach back with both my hands towards my hips. This arches my back, and pulls my shoulders up and out. As quite a small person, I don’t have the broadest chest to surf on, and I find this best maximises any potential chances of catching waves.

Having said that, since the development of sleek and effective handplanes, I have really noticed a difference in how successful my surfing trips are. The updated technology, and the ability to connect easier with the international community and share ideas and experiences, has led a dramatic increase in the popularity of bodysurfing. In the last decade in particular, bodysurfing has truly taken off as an alternative to the classic board surfing that has dominated magazines and shores for many years.

Bodysurfing has never been more popular, and more exciting to be a part of. It has a tumultuous history, and almost ceased to exist in the late 20th century – but now it is back with a vengeance and with it comes new and exciting technology to really maximise the experience. Fins and handplanes have never been more effective, such a high quality and so fun. In the early days, bodysurfing was just about the rush of catching a wave. Now the sport is being pushed to its absolute limit, with professionals and competitors using the equipment available to them to charge in bigger, scarier surf and to throw shapes that Captain James Cook and his crew probably never thought possible. Like any sport, there have been teething difficulties for bodysurfing, but now is the best time to be getting involved and giving it a go.

I’ve been thinking this week about getting away for the weekend, heading up the coast and finding somewhere I can get in for a few hours without the surf turning to mush or being blind-sided by 70mph gusts, but with my tiny Ford Ka I need to be really specific with my packing. This isn’t a van job, I can only take the things that I absolutely need (and that includes passengers). With this in mind, I am wondering what the absolute fundamentals are for a winter surf trip in the UK. And what can be left behind if, like me, you have affection for your tiny car that means you’re not ready to look for something bigger yet?

Warmth is important. I usually pack a blanket, my biggest jackets, a stove for a hot cuppa once you I out. I don’t think this can be scrimped on, or I probably won’t spend much time in the sea. After that it’s all about my board gear; wax, spare leash, wetsuit (hat, boots and gloves!) and any bodyboards I can fit. I am not be planning to go for long, so I want to make the most out of any time away. Last but not least, the basics for comfort. I always buy food when I get to wherever I’m staying, it saves packing more than I need and eating out can make the trip more of a holiday. That’s pretty much everything you need for a UK winter surf trip.

Throughout the winter, getting in the sea can be a real labour of love. These last few days, the swell off the North East coast has been absolutely smothered by the wind. The surf comes more often, but so does biting rain and cold car parks. I can’t claim to be the most committed surfer – but I’m trying. 

I’m no expert, and I’ve still got a lot to learn about the illustrious world of cold water surfing, but these are the nine things I have found to be essential to a fun, exciting and inspiring winter surf trip:

1.    A portable stove, gas and a kettle for a fresh brew.

2.    Surfboards. 

3.    Surfboard travel bag.

4.    The right gear, say goodbye to that 3mm summer suit. 

5.    A well-stocked first aid kit

6.    Towels and blankets (Multiple!)

7.    Surf Alternatives for those mushy days, like a bellyboard, or hand-board.

8.    Warm Clothing.

9.    Stoke.

If everything above can fit in a 1.2 litre, four seat car then it should be on everyone’s packing list to get the most out of their surf.

The right gear

Whether at home or away, thick neoprene is essential to enjoying a winter surf. Rubber is going to be my best friend, and leaving anything behind or scrimping on packing can make getting in the sea almost unbearable.

Wetsuits were first introduced to the international market in the 1950s. They were thin, they fell apart much quicker than our modern day equivalent, and they were not easy to put on. However, for the surfers that had been paddling out in woolly jumpers, they were a godsend.

“It’s always summer on the inside.” The motto for Jack O’Neill’s first commercial suits, introduced in 1959.

Now, we’re lucky to have stretchy and comfortable suits that will keep us warm year round –so it’s a good idea to invest. If you’re looking for a new suit, splash out on the best 5mm you can buy, I did. For me, no-zip or a chest zip works best. A chest zip minimises flushing, and I personally prefer the fit around my neck.

And don’t forget to get boots, a hood and gloves to match. Surfing is no fun if you can’t feel your feet, and taking off your gear with cold hands is hard enough without losing the use of your fingers. I’ve been the person writhing around in the car park for 30 minutes, hoping no one sees what a kook you’re being – it’s no fun.

The ticket to tea

A stove is potentially the most important thing to remember, after your boards. You want to start your sessions on the right note. Fuelling up before a winter surf is one of the most essential parts of my routine, and can make or break the fun of the sea.

Not only that, but when you start to get cold, knowing that you’re coming out to a hot drink makes it that bit easier to stay in a little longer.

I would be lost without a Trangia in the boot, for pre-surf encouragement and something to look forward to when peeling off a freezing suit.  We have a few coffee shops on our local beach, but you can’t rely on there being a place nearby and coffee is a must – especially after a dawn dip.

Surfboards and a Surfboard Travel Bag

Winter swell is undeniably different to summer, and as such it’s important to take the appropriate boards away with you.

My current storage situation means I only have one trusty steed, but if you have multiple then making sure you have the right board for the right wave is a must. We’re talking bigger swell, steeper waves – the winter gets exciting and heading out with a high-volume foamie is not the way to do it.

But what board is useful without everything else you need to maintain it? I’ve been guilty before of forgetting wax, or a wax comb, and it’s usually on days that I need it most.

I’m a big believer in an organised surfboard travel bag, because without one I would probably lose my head. In mine I keep both base wax, and cold water wax. I also keep a spare fin (Just in case I lose one of my three), a fin key, a spare leash and a ding repair kit. Nothing that takes up too much space but all things that might be a pain to replace if lost or forgotten.

A Well-stocked First Aid Kit

The chances are; you’ll never use this. However, if you have ever seen a fin injury (also known as a ‘skeg’) then you will understand the importance of being prepared for the worst outcome. They can be incredibly minor, but they can also be pretty nasty.

According to Surf Survival, a very interesting book by Andrew Nathanson, Clayton Everline and Mark Renneker, 55% of surf injuries are caused by the surfers own board.

“55% of surfing injuries can be attributed to a surfer and their surf board.”

First aid kits are readily available. I keep one in the boot of my car, not just for surf trips but all year round. Knowing that I have the materials at hand to deal with almost any scenario makes me much more comfortable on a day to day basis.

I personally don’t think it is worth the risk of missing out on anything, so made sure to fully stock my kit. However, I know that plenty of retailers offer everything from pocket first-aid-kits to mountain standard – we all know our own abilities and limits, and the likelihood of getting into difficulties.

Taking a first-aid-kit is a personal preference, but I would highly recommend it.

Surf Board Alternatives for the Mushy Days

There’s no telling with the swell. Sometimes it arrives early, sometimes it arrives late, and sometimes it doesn’t arrive at all. Sometimes you have a wave, but it is closing out or not peeling quite right. We can’t always guarantee that perfect A-frame that so many of us dream about.

This year I tried my first belly board. It was actually really awesome, and for days at a beach break it is absolutely perfect.

There are some beaches along our coastline that have more less-than-ideal days than ideal days. That’s not to say we shouldn’t get in, and sometimes you’re so desperate to be in the water that it really doesn’t matter.

Those are the days that I’d be getting out a good surf board alternative. There are plenty of options now; belly boards, hand paddles, body boards. After last summer I was a new convert to the sport of body surfing, and even when the surf is mush you can get out and have real fun.

Warm Kit And Hot Water Bottles

The big secret to cold water surfing? Fill up a hot water bottle before you go in (Remember that stove) and put it in the middle of your clothes. Warm and dry clothes when you climb out are one of the unbeatable feelings of winter surfing, and make every suit flush worth the cold.

Another essential I pack in my ‘warm musts’ is an old blanket to go on the floor, and at least two to wrap up in afterwards. I have to say, I am usually most thankful for the sacrifices of my floor blanket – keep your toes just that little bit toastier by keep them off the freezing, and often wet, car park. The other two can go around your shoulders when you’re half changed, and will provide more protection from the wind than a towel ever could.

If you have one, a robie or dry robe are also fantastic alternatives and investing in one further down the line is something I should really consider.

Either way, the biggest turn off from winter surfing is the cold – and preparing for the coldest conditions will ensure a much more enjoyable experience all round. If you’re going away, sparing a little extra space to pack extra towels and blankets will not go amiss.

And most importantly of all: Bring the Stoke.

Surf stoke is a real thing. When we surf, we experience increased levels of adrenalin and dopamine. The more we partake in sports that encourage these elevated levels, the more we become addicted to the rush. (You’ll see the effects of this with ‘adenaline-junkies’, like the big wave surfers that tackle Nazare in Portugal.)

When you’re planning to go away, you’ll probably get excited just by the thought of experiencing this feeling. Think about the breaks, the spots, the rights and lefts. Plan where you’re going to go, check out the forecast and get hyped about the trip ahead. 

Winter trips can be rejuvenating, and getting away and having a break is always good for the soul. If you’re not stoked already, when you get on the road you certainly will be. 

Conclusion

Getting away in the winter months is always harder than a warm, summer holiday. That being said, we can still make memories of waves that we will never forget – and with that more powerful and steeper swell, you should have an incredible surf. There is no time like the present to start monitoring Scottish pressure chart and planning your trip.  With the right gear, and the right attitude, truly cold water surf can be an exhilarating and incredible experience. I think, and I’m sure most people would agree, that a little discomfort is worth it to have the time of your life and catch pumping swell you might well be talking about for months. On the UK coastline we have some world class waves, and winter is as good a time as any to explore them.